Climate-resistant grapes? Spanish winemakers revive ancient varieties

Forgotten grape varieties offer adaptation hope for an industry particularly sensitive to change

The ads – tucked in the corners of local newspapers and directed at winemakers – began turning up across Catalonia in the 1980s. “If you know where to find any uncommon grape varieties, please get in touch,” they read.

Dozens of tips came pouring in, shepherding Miguel A Torres in his search for long-forgotten wine grapes. But it wouldn’t be until a decade later, as the climate crisis began wreaking havoc on vines, that the fourth-generation winemaker realised his foray into the past could play a key role in tackling what lies ahead.